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CM26: Gastronomy

Merryl Wyn Davies shreds foodie culture as the construct of affluence and essence of abundance, Yasmin Alibhai-Brown returns to Uganda to recover her taste buds, Timothy Bartel is transformed by a visit to Willowbrook Farm, Jeremy Henzell-Thomas is convinced that the rise of celebrity chefs spells the end of
(western) civilisation as we have known it, Charles Upton reads (and ‘transcreates’) Sufi wine poetry, Sami Zubaida recalls the Baghdad kitchen of his childhood, Colin Tudge suggests that the future belongs to those who can conjure up gourmet meals, Shanon Shah becomes a part-time vegetarian, Boyd Tonkin meets Claudia Roden, Gunel Isakova laments the loss of Azerbaijani food rituals, Tahir Abbas wakes up to the smell of Arabica beans, Hussein Kesvani defends halal fried chicken shops, Imran Kausar launches a new brand of halal fare, Yemisi Aribisala invokes Nigerian love stews, Mohammad Ali remembers the forgotten Bangladeshi pioneers of the ‘Indian restaurant’, C Scott Jordan has dinner at a restaurant in the jungle of Calais, Irum Shehreen Ali is intoxicated with the eighth-century poet Abu Nuwas, Misha Monaghan has difficulty digesting Ugly Food, and Vicky Bishop tucks into Halal Snack Packs (chips with layers of doner kebab sprinkled with ‘Holy Trinity’ sauces).
 
Also in this issue: Becky Trow on the colonial fantasy of Victoria and Abdul, Laych Koh on the plight of the Rohingya, a short story by Wasio Ali Khan Abbasi, three (foodie) poems by Shadab Zeest Hashmi, Mimi Khalvati’s ‘Zereshk Polow’, and our list of Seven Wonderful Future Foods.
 
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In this issue

Twice Removed Migrant by Yasmin Alibhai-Brown

In January 2018, I went back to Kampala, the capital of Uganda, my birthplace. We Ugandan Asians were exiled from the country in 1972. I ...

Our Kitchen in 1940s Baghdad by Sami Zubaida

The house of my childhood in Baghdad had two courtyards, haush, Middle Eastern style. The larger one was the centre of the main living area, ...

Caucasus Rituals by Gunel Isakova

My seventy-five-year-old grandma, dusting a clean working area generously with flour, slightly patting with the top of her hand to flatten the ...

Fried Chicken Shops by Hussein Kesvani

It’s 10.30 pm on a Thursday night in early January 2018. Fluorescent lights beam across the city, emitted by the skyscrapers that line ...

The Haloodies by Imran Kausar

Glasgow, 1994. It’s raining. It always seems to be raining. But that doesn’t make me love the town of my birth any less. A few ...

Love Stews by Yemisi Aribisala

My weekly blog on food and culture for the Nigerian newspaper 234next had earned that reputation of being an early morning table where people ...

Horrid Nourishment by Misha Monaghan

Ugly food is not a concept I grew up with. I have mixed Scottish, Indian and Pakistani heritage so it was not unusual for me to be served up ...

The Halal Snack Pack by Vicky Bishop

My mother is a Cambodian. My father a New Zealander. I am Australian. My mother’s background shaped much of my early life compared with ...

Seven Wonderful Future Foods

Not so long ago, a prawn cocktail was the height of futuristic sophistication. Radioactive-looking frozen curries would be thawed out on a ...